Patty's travelogue

On sutra 1.35-

I close my eyes and center my awareness between them
attempting to pull myself deeper into my thoughts
I take note and force my gaze downward
following the path just behind my nose and
down the center of my throat
I refocus back to my limbs
realizing
that the world surrounding me is as light as a gentle breeze
and I am nothing and everything at the same time
thoughts escaping and pervading the very essence from whence they came
I picture I am on the edge of an ocean
The sounds of waves crashing beyond me
as I’m planted cross-legged on a jagged rock
I taste the salt on my lips and smell the sea from the inside
outside is nothing but a room
in my apartment
holding me tight to my world of thoughts
If all this exists within me
then it must be there with you too
and every being that walks this world,
that follows a different path
I’m starting to see the depths of things now
The interconnectedness of everything
and of nothing
and of all other ideas in between
I realize what I’m truly capable of
As I sit here cross-legged on an imaginary wave
Sensing the world around me
Drifting deeper
and deeper
inside

On sutra 1.34

The morning calls to me from a distance
Sunlight breaking through the blinds
Bright enough to catch my weary eye
This day is no different from the ones before,
But I am

I take my seat as I do each morning
Before the rest of the world arises
My secret moments
And I listen to the sound of my breath

Being like this has become easier as
I become more fully aware
And I let so much I was holding onto
go
From the outside in,
I’m no longer just me looking out

In this moment there is nothing
But the vast spaciousness extending outside of me
The light that is surrounding me
And my cat
And my husband in the other room

I try to absorb it all and reflect it back out
First through an open heart
Then through my own powerful breath
It tells the story of me in its very presence
The places I’ve been
My old worries and my constant fears

But I’ve let those go many times
again and again
With a deep set exhalation I let the air and my curiosity go
My worries about that moment leave me,
if not momentarily, eternally

This brings me back to my seat each morning
It finds me in the moments of weakness
I envision it all being taken away in a breath
And I am floating further away still
Closer to what is me
Who I really am inside

Have you ever thought of just unplugging yourself completely…. from your routine, your job, your friends, your life? In my yoga training I’m learning to do this in a different sort of way. By plugging back in to myself and my mind. Getting right in there and facing the scary stuff. This time not running away. We’re trying to find out what’s really in there. Maybe we’re going to realize atman or become enlightened. Maybe we’ll still be the same, but the importance really lies in the willingness to give it a chance. We’re learning to turn the noise off to get to the root of it all. Citta vrtti nirodhah.

But how do we do this? And how do we stay on track? I’m still working my way through this all and decided it’s time to start holding a pencil to my thoughts. Maybe we can all learn a little something along the way..

40 kilometers outside of Agra sits Fatehpur Sikri, constructed by Emperor Akbar between 1571 and 1585. Built in honor of Salim Chishti, a famous Sufi saint of the Chishti order, it served as the Mughal capital for 14 years. The most intriguing thing about this city is the intricate blend of Hindu, Christian and Muslim architecture, which also reflected Akbar’s religious views and style of governance. During his reign he tried to begin his own religion, Din-i-Ilahi or Divine Faith, which included teachings of all major religions.
Inside the main city sit five major palaces, one for each of Akbar’s wives, one for Birbal the prime minister, and one for Akbar himself. The three palaces to his wives were each designed with Christian, Muslim and Hindu motifs as one wife was Christian, one was Muslim and one was Hindu. The Turkish Sultana’s House, also called the glass house is the smallest of the three and is built with sandstone carvings made to look like wood. Diamonds were inlaid into the interior walls and have since been looted. The second palace built for his Christian wife, was designed in the shape of a cross and painted in gold. The last of the three palaces was his Hindu wife’s palace, built in extravagance since she was the only to bear him a son.

Behind the city lies the Jami Masjid, a grand open mosque which was a model for several other Mughal mosques. There were two gates to enter the mosque, Badshahi Darwaza, Akbar’s private gate, and Buland Darwaza, the public or victory gate. Built to symbolize his victory over Gujarat in 1573, this 177 foot entrance is the highest gate in all of Asia. Within the Jami Masjid is a tomb built in honour of Salim Chishti. It was his prediction that finally ended Akbar childlessness and now serves as a tourist attraction where supplicants go and tie a thread in hopes of fulfilling their wish.
Next we made our way to Agra, which was the seat of the imperial Mughal court during the 16th and 17th centuries. It was strategically located on the Yamuna banks, and was prosperous under the reign of Akbar, Jahinger and Shah Jahan.

The next stop on our journey brought us to the Taj Mahal at last. We arrived at around sunrise to ensure we were one of the first people to witness this wonder for the day. Built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Maha, it took 20,000 laborers 12 years to complete. It cost 41 million rupees and boasts 500 kilos of gold. Our guided explained that Shah Jahan personally continued to care for all of the artists after they completed the work so that they would agree to never work on anything again. This way he could ensure that nothing more beautiful could ever be created. The four minarets that surround the tomb are built slanting slightly outward to make it look bigger to the eyes and add to its grandeur. The tomb itself is perfectly symmetrical, an if it is cut in half each one would be a mirror image of the other. The only thing in the tomb that is not symmetrical is the tomb of Shah Jahan, which was added later by his favorite daughter and had not been included in the original design. Intricately carved floral designs can be found throughout the chambers where individual flower petals are formed by precious stones inlaid into the marble surface. This type of art still exists in the many markets throughout Agra as local artisans continue cultivating the craft. There are no words to describe how amazing this place was, but it was nothing short of breathtaking.

We also had the opportunity to stop at the mini Taj Mahal, Jami Masjid. Built by Shah Jahan’s favorite daughter Jahanara, this sandstone and marble mosque was built using marble domes and distinctive zigzag patterns. The area surrounding this mosque was once famous for its kabob houses and many bazaars.  Another highlight we visited was Agra fort, built by Akbar from 1565 to 1573. Its earlier parts consists of red sandstone from Akbar while newer sections are composed of marble, Shah Jahan’s elegant preference. Within the impressive Amar Singh Gate, are many palaces, halls, courtyards, galleries and an underground dungeon.
One of our final stops before leaving the beautiful north was Sikandra, where we toured Akbar’s tomb. It is believed that Akbar designed and started constructing his own mausoleum, which was modified and finally completed by his son Jahangir. The magnificent red sandstone gate is finished with inlaid white marble, black slate and colored stone. The most interesting aspect of this tomb is the departure from the typical dome structure and the simple bare interior that houses Akbar’s grave.

Lastly, we stopped at Swaminarayan Akshardham.  Akshardham, which means the eternal divine abode of the supreme God, was built to showcase 10,000 years of Indian culture. The interior of the complex is absolutely amazing, and the exhibits are reminiscent of a Disney theme park. We were completely surprised when we entered this complex and would recommend everyone who visits Delhi to visit this wonder.
What an amazing journey this has been so far, and yet I find myself wanting for more. I am so thankful for this small view of India, and would not have been able to do it without my best friend by my side always showing me more, and making me take everything in.

Between Jaipur and Agra is a famous Nation Park, known for its collection of wildlife and 35 Indian Tigers that live inside. Various camp hotels around the outskirts, offer a chance for tourists and nature enthusiasts alike, to take a safari into the wilderness and with a bit of luck spot one of the 35 tigers. The best hours to get a glimpse of one of the beasts is early in the morning after sunrise and later in the afternoon before sunset, their most active times. We saw many deer, peacocks and kingfisher birds, and finally in the last moment were lucky enough to see one tiger, briefly, as she moved from her hiding place under a tree to some better place deep in the woods.

The next morning we visited another main attraction the park offers, Ranthambore fort. Within the walls are many palaces and temples, including a famous temple for lord Ganesh, where thousands make a pilgrimage to once a year. An interesting story about this fort is that the king who reigned here was very powerful and a strong fighter. While he was trying to be conquered by another kingdom, he told his wives that if there was a black flag outside the main gate to sacrifice themselves, since this indicated that he lost the battle. If a red flag was there, it signified his victory. In those days the wives of a king would sacrifice themselves by burning, since the conquering king would potentially rape and use them upon his defeat. This strong king was able to defeat the enemy, but some of his loyal servants were bribed to put up a black flag. The king return to find it had been taken over and he was locked out. Legend has it that he and his horse climbed up one wall of the fort to enter the main gate, there is even an indent in the stone left  behind by his horse. The king found his entire kingdom was plundered and that his wives had sacrificed themselves. He then went to kill himself and was visited by Shiva who told him that his kingdom needed him to continue his reign. He then cut his head off ignoring Shiva’s request, to which Shiva reattached his head seven different times. Finally Shiva conceded and allowed the king to take his life.

We made our way to Jaipur, also known as the pink city, after about 6 hours of driving. It was late in the evening so Pri took me to an outdoor fair known as Chowki Dhani, a popular site for families and tourists alike. Inside the walls, visitors enjoy a display of local shows and crafts as well as sit down for tradition Rajasthani thali. Thank goodness we skipped lunch, since the abundant food was overflowing and absolutely delicious, even if we didn’t get to try the jalebi. We sat to watch a magician, several dance performances, I displayed my amazing skills in archery, we watched elephant and camel rides, and even got the chance to try on some traditional Rajasthani clothes.

The next day we spent touring this fascinating city. Painted pink to signify welcome, all of the walls within the old city are required to remain this color. If a merchant or house owner tries to repaint in another color, they face a hefty fine.  Our first stop was the exterior of Hawa Mahal, or Palace of the winds, built by Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799. A city icon dedicated to Lord Krishna, this one room deep palace sits five stories high and was designed to allow the  veiled queens to observe local festivals unnoticed behind stained glass windows. It was here where I had the pleasure of meeting a king cobra and was even swayed to touch it, by a local snake charmer performing along the side of the road.

We drove by Chaugna Stadium, an open area near the City Palace, once used for polo games, elephant and lion fights, festival processions and wrestling matches, it is now used for the city’s famous elephant festival. We stopped at the Government Central Museum also known as Albert Hall. Designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob, it houses decorative shields and weaponry, pottery, painted cloth scrolls, carpets and an ancient mummy from between 400-300 B.C. We were surrounded by many school children, which reminded me of my field trips as a child. They stopped to ask me where I was from, what was my name and did I have any currency, while trying to sneak pictures of Pri and I as we made our way through the museum.

We next made our way through Badi Chaupa, translated as “Large Square,” which has not changed much since its original 18th century plan. Most impressive was a UNESCO site, Jantar Mantar, an observatory of astronomical instruments still used by astrologists today, which was built by Jai Singh II between 1728 and 1734. Some of the instruments are still used to predict how hot the summer months will be, and what the crop prospects will be for the coming year. The Nirivalaya Yantra incline at 27 degrees, the exact latitude of Jaipur, represents the two hemispheres and calculates time following the solar cycle. Also within these walls, they are able to determine the current time within two seconds, and to determine the planets positions and celestial bodies to make astrological predictions is past and present times.

We also visited the city palace Museum, which has been the home of Jaipur rulers since the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Diwan-i-Khas are two giant silvers urns, also found in the Guinness Book of World Records, which were used to carry sacred Ganges water for Madho Singh II’s visit to London in 1901. Also housed here are rare Mughal and Rajput miniature paintings. The Chandra Mahal (Moon palace), a seven storied palace, is closed to the public as the current Maharaja and his family still reside there.

We made our way into Pritam Chowk or the “Curt of the Beloved,” where four painting doorways inside represent the four main seasons. We made our way through Silch Khana, one of India’s best collection of weapons, where we looked at many elaborate pieces of swords, guns and shields.  Inside the first floor of Mubarak Mahal, we were able to catch a glimpse of a collection of royal costumes and textiles, including the pyjama of a seven foot and almost 250 kg Mahajar that once ruled the city of Jaipur.

We enjoyed two more camels ride in a desert camp between Jaisalmer and Jodhpur. One at sunset and one at sunrise. It was absolutely amazing to watch the sunrise from the desert. The sky was already completely lit by the time the bright pink sun emerged. It went through various shades of orange, before finally its blazing golden face shone. Our camel guide sat with us and made a fire since the nights and mornings are very cold in the desert this time of year. This is a stark contrast between the extreme heat that exists during the day, even in the winter months. Thank goodness the snakes have left for the winter, cause I’m not sure Pri could have convinced me to sleep in a tent otherwise.

We bid our camel goodbye as it happily continued to eat its morning meal. Just like a cow chews its cud, it chewed and swallowed its food and in one fell swoop burped it back up again, leaving a horrible odor in the wake and inadvertently in our noses. We couldn’t help but laugh at our new friend, who didn’t take any notice of our disdain for his less than perfect etiquette!

We made our way to the city of Jodhpur, the second largest city in Rajasthan. Founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the ruler of the kingdom or Marwar, it like many of the other cities in Rajasthan was also located along the overland trade route. It is famous for its thriving merchant class, the Marwaris, who continue to run many of India’s leading businesses a with their savvy entrepreneurial skills. Driving into the city, you could see the famous blue houses that painted this landscape. Once reserved for only the Brahmin class, houses were painted blue in order to absorb the summer heat and keep the houses cool as well as keep the mosquitoes away in this great city.

We walked through the streets and visited some shops in Sardar Bazaar. Located within a great wall, the streets were filled with merchants and vendors piled on top of each other trying to sell produce and souvenirs to the locals and tourists making their way down the road. We stopped here for the best lassi in India according to our guide to find that it was as delicious as proclaimed, perhaps the best Pri and I have had in our lives.

We also made our way to the outside of Jaswant Thada, where a cenotaph of Maharaja Jawant Singh II resides, put their by his adoring wife. He is beloved by the people of this city due to the prosperity he brought to their land, through the introduction of his innovative irrigation ideas. There are many other cenotaphs in this same place, Maharaja Jawant Singh II is the most notable.

Next stop was Umaid Bhavan Palace, which is the current residence of the Maharaja, a small museum as well as a Taj hotel. It was built by Maharaja Umaid Singh, in order to create jobs for the famine stricken people of his city. It contains 347 rooms, including eight dining halls, two theaters, a ballroom, several reception halls, and an underground swimming pool. Outside the palace safely behind a glass garage, houses the Maharaja’s own collection of fancy cars. The center of the palace is occupied by a giant dome, which houses the central hall and the main portion of the public museum. At its inauguration, a 1,000 people were invited here to dine and celebrate its opening. Designer by HV Lanchester, it is a beautiful mixture of Rajput, Jain and European Art Deco styles.

Since their Independence from the British in 1947, the Maharaja’s throughout India retain no official political power. In Jodhpur, however, the current Maharaja is treated with the utmost respect, and is known for being quite the philanthropist. Following the death of many locals during a stampede in a large temple, he went to each of the victims families to offer money and requested that the local government do the same. Their influence in politics holds true for many of the current Maharajas, and most of their palaces have been turned into museums and hotels in order to serve as a source of income.

Our final stop was the great Mehrangarh Fort, which sits atop a 410 ft rock overlooking the entire city. Founded by Rao Jodha in 1459, this sandstone fort houses many beautiful palaces inside.  We entered through Jai Pol, the main gate, built by Maharaja Man Singh in 1806. Our first stop was Shringar Chowk, the main courtyard containing the coronation throne of Jodhpur rulers, and sat amidst what appeared to be a scene from a Bollywoood movie. The Maharaja’s son had just been married, and they were setting up for a reception that would be taking place that night. We joked that we would stay for the festivities, which consisted of an outdoor bar, dinner and dance performance. We made our way through the forts interiors, where an elaborate collection of weapons, tapestries, and lattice work were on display. All of the animals displayed in this palace were laughing to signify that animals have emotions and feelings just like humans.

We also went through several palaces including Takhat Mahal, which was the favorite retreat of Majaraja Takhat Singh, notable for having 30 queens and numerous concubines. It was not uncommon for the Maharaja’s to have many wives in order to ensure that they would have a proper heir since death for infants in olden times was quite common. Their queens were never allowed to show their faces in public, perhaps due their possessive husbands, and they were often kept apart to limit quarrels.

Next stop on our journey through Rajasthan  brought us to Jaisalmer. Located in the Thar Desert, this city was once a flourishing stop along the caravan trade route to Afgahanistan and Central Asia. The land here was very dry and dusty, and water here is also scarce. Many Europeans come here to relax and end up staying here for many weeks on holiday.

We made our way to Suyria Gahr, a brand new hotel in the area built to look like an old palace. The interior of the hotel was absolutely beautiful , and everything in the room was just pristine. We made our way down to an expensive dinner, which we ate and then we danced to a local musical performance. After dinner I was called up to join a puppet show, where I was asked to pull a string out of a puppet’s mouth after she ate an entire carpet! This is the similar to the type of entertainment a king would have at night and we were happy to have had the same.

Our next day we spent on foot touring much of the main attraction at Jaisalmer, the city’s large fort. Sitting on top of a giant hill, it is one of the only living forts that exist in the world, where descendants of the original owners still occupy the walls. It was built in 1136 by Maharawal (king) Jaisal and continued to be added to by his successors. Inside the fort are various markets, and locals are known for their craft work in silver, camel products, and embroidery. The food is Rajasthan is also different from other places in India as their curries are made with milk and butter instead of water, since that is very difficult to find.

We toured through two other beautiful Jain temples, where we were not allowed to bring in bags, leather products, or water. The reason for not bringing water with us was so that if there was any bacteria or life present in the water, we would not be killing any life when we took a sip. I admire the Jain religion for the utmost respect they have for life, and at least if they may be responsible for the death of another life, it was not their intention to do so. In all of the temples inside the fort, their are 6,666 idols of their 24 prophets depicted, since 6 + 6 + 6 + 6 = 24. Because all of the prophets look the same, sitting in lotus position like Buddha, their is a small image underneath their ankle which will tell you which prophet is being worshiped in that place.

We next toured the Gadiagar lake, which was built in 1367, and was once the only source of water for the city and provided a nice relaxing place for the Maharawal when he needed rest. The water level is solely dependent on rainfall, and people feed bread and snacks to the catfish that live inside in order to gain good karma by helping out another life. It was amazing to see them piled on top of one another, mouths open and large whiskers on every side, hoping to be the next lucky recipient of a meal, struggling to survive.

We also had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Mustache, a celebrity in his own right who has won this city’s local competition several years in a row. His mustache stands at four feet long, and he kindly unwound it so we could take a picture. Finally I learned for the second time in my life that cows just don’t like me. The first time was in Vermont when I tried to milk one on Jaime’s dairy farm, he got angry and kicked me. Well I managed to get into the path of a cow in Jaisalmer, one with big horns, and he got mad and jabbed his giant horn right into my side. I felt like I was in my own bullfight, and it happened so quickly that I really didn’t have time to react. I just laughed and walked away. I guess I know where the cows and I stand, I get it, you win.

Our last stop was at Bikaner Restaurant, recommended by Raj our guide. We ate the most delicious thali, for one tenth of the price that we paid at the hotel. We liked it so much we actually ended up going there the next day for lunch.  The guide in Jaisalmer was the most helpful and knowledgeable one we have encountered so far.

We were trying to give him some tips to make to make traveling better for tourists in our age group. Most of the places we have stayed at have been luxurious and rather expensive, but hey it’s our honeymoon so we decided to enjoy. But the average traveler here doesn’t have that much money to stay in five star hotels, and anything  much less than that would be too dirty. Also it’s so difficult to find information on websites for where to visit and where to find a guide. That almost forces you to use a middle man and so most of your money goes to him. This happens, while guides and drivers are living off of paltry tips and commission they make form the shops and restaurants they bring you to. This is mainly how they make their money, but the average tourist is savvy, and after being paraded through enough of these overpriced shops, stops buying things under so much pressure. It’s a shame as India is such a beautiful country with so much to offer. Perhaps someday the tourism will be easier, for now you are left to your own devices, and that of the money hungry middle men.